Dino Buying Advice Needed - Ferrari Life
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 01-17-2010, 12:17 AM Thread Starter
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Dino Buying Advice Needed

I have always had a soft spot for Dino 246s and think I might have found one of interest. In the past when I have looked at them, fitting comfortably behind the wheel has always been an issue (I am 6'2"). I did not want to buy an original car and then start to modify the cabin by remounting the seats and rails to make it comfortable. However one is coming up for sale that has been raced, and then restored to road spec. Hence it has already had the interior modified.

What are the key things I should look for before buying?
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post #2 of 11 Old 01-17-2010, 02:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Boxer View Post
I have always had a soft spot for Dino 246s and think I might have found one of interest. In the past when I have looked at them, fitting comfortably behind the wheel has always been an issue (I am 6'2"). I did not want to buy an original car and then start to modify the cabin by remounting the seats and rails to make it comfortable. However one is coming up for sale that has been raced, and then restored to road spec. Hence it has already had the interior modified.

What are the key things I should look for before buying?
I remember when I first got hold of my Dino, I thought it was a bit cramped. However, you would adapt and begin to appreciate the "tightness", contrary to what you may believe. Of course, you cannot compare the comfort space against other V12s. Depending on how you look at things, the tighness contributes to the driving stance of Dino. Yes, you might have to splay out your ankles more, your ankle touches the steering knob, you'll bump your head here and there, but all of that are the traits. The exact steering feel/feedback, much lower profile, excellent body balance, going round corners with virtual no tipping, ...this car was made for winding, uphill roads. Yet, still an excellent, gratifying as GT, going down highways in high speed. The balance, the sidemounted V6 engine music right behind your back, the visual humps on both ends as you view thru widnshield, they all make Dino an etheral experience that is quite unlike other Fcars. If V12 sounds' like symphony, then Dino sounds like younger, rock singer.
Key things to consider are basically the same for all. Looks like this car is highly modified. It would be great if the current owner possess the original parts. Very often, people are not aware of the fact that parts are not correct, such as bumpers, steering wheel, etc. It would be ideal if you can test drive this car, Boxer.
Let me attach some pics of another modified Dino that I saw few years ago. If I can be of any help, Boxer, and if I can answer, I am more than willing.
By the way, what are the facts, like year model, model type (L,M, or E)., etc. ?
Good luck and keep us updated. w/ smiles Jimmy
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post #3 of 11 Old 01-17-2010, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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Jimmy, Many thanks. I will post more information when I have it. TO the best of my knowledge, the car has been restored/returned completely back to road spec.
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post #4 of 11 Old 01-17-2010, 05:53 PM
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Not too different than examining the mechanicals as in other period cars, so I don't have many special things to suggest but do look at these:
- check the alternator fuse box on the engine firewall, these are rare as hens teeth
- lighting/electrical systems can develop corrosion, check these
- Alternator appears clean (is located where oil can drip on it)
- the 2 cross tank fuel hoses that span 6 inches from each fuel tank are often neglected, inspect these for fatigue, drying, and micro-cracks

The standard typical mechanical inspection applies so don't forget to do due diligence of these:
- Leak down and compression test
- braking and driving straight
- hoses and 3 coolant pipes in good condition

The Dino can be quite reliable and does benefit if an aftermarket ignition box is used, so that should not be a deterrent.
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post #5 of 11 Old 01-18-2010, 07:39 AM
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Boxer,
Nick Cartwrights specialise in restoring Dino's if it was within reach they might be worth contacting for a PPI if you were planning to buy?

Ferrari's: 360 Modena, 550 Maranello
Ex's: Dino 308 GT4, 612 Scaglietti
The Rest: Rolls Royce Silver Shadow, Porsche 911 2.7s, Porsche 911 3.2 Carerra, Ducati 916... and the Land Rovers
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post #6 of 11 Old 01-18-2010, 08:35 AM
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When I got my Dino 246gt I was told to beware of 3 main weaknesses:
1. rust
2. electrical
3. cam lobe wear-these motors love to be revved and if not taken above 5000rpm regularly, develope rapid wear of the cams.

Mine was rhd which helped accomodate my 6 4" frame better than lhd as the gear lever is situated on the lhs of the transmission tunnel whether lhd or rhd. Thus with rhd I had more knee room. In lhd Dino's my splayed right knee obstructed access to the gear lever. The rhd Dino was one of the few instances where rhd was preferable to lhd for me.

Happy hunting, the Dino is a magnificent Ferrari.
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post #7 of 11 Old 01-18-2010, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Vitalone View Post
When I got my Dino 246gt I was told to beware of 3 main weaknesses:
1. rust
2. electrical
3. cam lobe wear-these motors love to be revved and if not taken above 5000rpm regularly, develope rapid wear of the cams.

Mine was rhd which helped accomodate my 6 4" frame better than lhd as the gear lever is situated on the lhs of the transmission tunnel whether lhd or rhd. Thus with rhd I had more knee room. In lhd Dino's my splayed right knee obstructed access to the gear lever. The rhd Dino was one of the few instances where rhd was preferable to lhd for me.

Happy hunting, the Dino is a magnificent Ferrari.
I agree with Vitalone. Dino loves to be revved to be enjoyed. Also, to me, the argument of whether Dino is a Fiat or Ferrari is irrelevent. w/ smiles Jimmy
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post #8 of 11 Old 01-18-2010, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by SCM246 View Post
Not too different than examining the mechanicals as in other period cars, so I don't have many special things to suggest but do look at these:
- check the alternator fuse box on the engine firewall, these are rare as hens teeth
- lighting/electrical systems can develop corrosion, check these
- Alternator appears clean (is located where oil can drip on it)
- the 2 cross tank fuel hoses that span 6 inches from each fuel tank are often neglected, inspect these for fatigue, drying, and micro-cracks

The standard typical mechanical inspection applies so don't forget to do due diligence of these:
- Leak down and compression test
- braking and driving straight
- hoses and 3 coolant pipes in good condition

The Dino can be quite reliable and does benefit if an aftermarket ignition box is used, so that should not be a deterrent.
Much appreciated and will do.
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post #9 of 11 Old 01-18-2010, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Barry View Post
Boxer,
Nick Cartwrights specialise in restoring Dino's if it was within reach they might be worth contacting for a PPI if you were planning to buy?
The one I am looking at has been in Nick Cartwrights care for the last decade.
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post #10 of 11 Old 02-24-2010, 07:30 PM
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You can look for rust under the doors once you open them .

There can be an oil drip from the chain tensionner onto the alternator (which make the alternator not giving enought/any Amperes)

If you Test drive the car ,check (when the gearbox is hot) if the second gear synchro is good and doesn't make bad noise ... (it's often the one which loose first)

The steering rack can often have play also. It is NLA new at Ferrari Maranello but there are shops that reconditione the old ones.

Maybe the seat of the first serie 246 gt can go further back (than others series) for tall people ,because the headrest are not attached to the seats.But 246 gt 1st series are rare.

The Dinos are fantastic cars !! (especially with a little more HP)
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post #11 of 11 Old 02-24-2010, 11:41 PM Thread Starter
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I missed out on the Cartwright cared for Dino. Search goes on.
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