The charcoal canister is basically a pollution control device. For a lot of efficent newer model cars they give off more harmful polution parked than they do running. Evaporation from the fuel tank into the air just puts un-burnt hydrocarbons into the air.
On modern cars they have gone to the sealed screw on gas caps vs the vented caps on our old muscle cars and bikes. When you park your car out in the sun and the fuel in the tank starts to vaporize the vapors are forced through the charcoal canister. The charcoal traps the unburnt hydrocarbons and then when you start the car the canister is heated and the vapors are released and travel via hose to the intake
where they are burnt by the combustion process.
The car will run just fine without the charcol canister if done correctly .
What I am thinking as my mech/Rob on this is, to put an inline fuel filter in the hose to trap such moecules. Replacing that filter than the $850+ canister makes more sense and probably is more updated. Not to mention what I'll explain below.
but will just put more emissions in the air. No problem if your in some place with plenty of clean air like CA? The big issue which I can't answer would be to find a way to remove it that wouldn't generate an ODBII code and make your check engine light come on. One of the things most modern cars ECM's monitor is the canisters function somehow? I know one of the most common causes for the check engine light to come on a lot of cars is a loose gas cap.
I have to believe that vapor, would stay in the tank or vent normally without emission problems. Right. If gone to the outside air, it will not be spent out the tailpipe. So, no reading to mess up.
also, I believe the entire contraption was only meant to really spend those vented vapors back into the engine which makes sense but can do just as well otherwise.
Here is the problem. When that valve cover is off, you see soot, and granuals everywhere, and in piston area too. Matter of fact after almost 20 years the leak down =< 1% with the exception of the two cylinders that get hit with the ganuals: 7 & 2. The angle of the intake from the canister almost points to the 7/2 cylinders intakes and you can see the 'damage' on the cover walls directly across from the inlets. Also, when those granuals hit the wall their lost momentum causes them to almost go directly into those two cylinder areas. Burnt/carbon interiors, especially in 7/2 show this, while the others are minimal.
Take them out, regardless or spend the big bucks to correct, BUT, and this is big IMO, you must replace them very regularly and/or filter trap them on the canister's exhaust ports.
Just saying...this is true.