[bretm]

Then I installed the knock sensor.

For the oil drain hose from the head I used tygon this time as I've been running it for 3 seasons on the go-kart for the gearbox. I suppose I wont win Concourso Italiano now, but it's a nice fit because the fitting on the flywheel backplate is a touch too large for a 3/4" hose while the fitting on the cam end plate is sized right for a 3/4" hose. It makes installing a normal 3/4" black rubber oil hose a pain.

Then came the alternator, belt covers, A/C, and belts. I know the engine wouldn't go back into the car with the A/C on, but I needed all of the belts on in order to be able to set the gap for the timing sensor.

[bretm]

At this point I got a little suspicious as it seemed an aweful lot like the alternator wires came out of the case aimed at where the header runs. So, I threw the front header on to confirm this. I also installed the starter while I was over there.

[bretm]

I pulled the back cover off of the alternator and then lengthened the thin wire accordingly to account for the new path towards the bottom of the car, away from the header.

[bretm]

Next up was the engine dipstick - also a good shot of the bracket I made a few years ago for the fuel pressure regulator (mounted on top of the A/C), the oil filter mount, and the clutch stop. I also adjusted the clutch stop here on the bench.

At this point, I switched gears and started focusing on the fuel injection, which is the bulk of the next posts.

[ferraripilot]

Step away from the Fram oil filter ! Please! They are cardboard inside and will implode! Get a Baldwin size B253

[bretm]

Originally Posted by ferraripilot

Step away from the Fram oil filter ! Please! They are cardboard inside and will implode! Get a Baldwin size B253

I've read most of the articles online as well, but there are an aweful lot of classics (and cars in general) running around with Frams. They must be doing something right.

That said, it looks like Baldwins are the same price as Frams. So, there's not much reason not to use them. Plus, they do have checkered flags on them. Hmmm....
http://www.desmoparts.com/products/p...il-lube-filter

[ferraripilot]

The pressures these engines run at start-up and higher rpm is just too high for the Fram cardboard ends. The filter in the below pic came from a 308 which was running 30 weight mobil 1 synthetic at the track.


I pick my Baldwin's up at a local Granger supply dealer. They always look at me as if I have 3 heads and come from an alternate dimension when I pick up these filters. Guess it's due to them dishing out semi truck parts all day.

[bretm]

Originally Posted by ferraripilot

The pressures these engines run at start-up and higher rpm is just too high for the Fram cardboard ends. The filter in the below pic came from a 308 which was running 30 weight mobil 1 synthetic at the track.


I pick my Baldwin's up at a local Granger supply dealer. They always look at me as if I have 3 heads and come from an alternate dimension when I pick up these filters. Guess it's due to them dishing out semi truck parts all day.

I didn't notice that they were so readily available until now and priced the same as the Frams. Seems like a good idea to me.

[bretm]

When I first pulled the engine I sent the intake manifolds and plenum out to the same machine shop - Durable1. It was before I decided to buy the mill/lathe, and when I had even less time to work on the 308.

The machinist came up with a set of hold-downs for the destra bank that allowed the plenum and throttle body to fit without spacers, and still had clearance for the throttle linkage. The only trouble is that when I went to pressure test it, the hold-downs for the #3 and #4 cylinders leaked like a seive.

At this point I decided that instead of making another convoluted hold-down with questionable flow characteristics, I'd setup a more conventional set of rails. I remember seeing on FChat a gentleman was running 1" spacers for the plenum and a 2" TB spacer. And, I seemed to remember that when Mark built his first supercharger he had measured the stock intake and it had at least 1" of clearance to the bonnet.

[bretm]

First up was making the throttle body spacer. I started with a 3.5" x 2.75" x 12" 6061 tube and two 5" x .25" 6061 discs.

I cut the tube off 2.5" long on the lathe and then machined the OD down to 3.125" and cleaned the ID up just a few thousandths to bring it out to 70mm.

The aluminum welding that I can do with the MIG is pretty limited. So, I wanted to use the ends of the tube as the sealing surfaces. They're less prone to warpage in comparison to the flanges. The throttle body already has an o-ring groove cut into it, so only one end of the tube needed to have a groove cut into it for another o-ring. This is the side that goes against the plenum.

I bored the flanges out so they're a snug fit onto the tube - approx. .001" oversize, and then welded it all together. Then I milled the edges of the flange that is on the plenum side - it would get hung up on some of the plenum casting without this. And, I slotted the areas near the studs so that the nuts would have room to turn on.

There was of course a lot of measuring, cleaning up weld splatter, machining the flanges so the tube is proud and everything is true, etc.

[Pizzaman]

Looking good Bret.

I must have missed it, but which Electromotive are you going to use?

[bretm]

Originally Posted by Pizzaman

Looking good Bret.

I must have missed it, but which Electromotive are you going to use?

I have a Tec3.

The word on the street is that you can send it into Electromotive and for a few hundred bucks they'll update it to their latest hardware/software - the Tec3r.

Thanks for reminding me, as I should probably get on that in light of my goal to have it up and running by the end of September.

[Pizzaman]

The other thing I wanted to ask is, If you don't mind, is how does the knock sensor work? That spot where you install it, did you make a hole threw the block?

I'm going to be running the same ECU I got the Tec3r. So I hope I can learn some things from your thread.

[bretm]

Originally Posted by Pizzaman

The other thing I wanted to ask is, If you don't mind, is how does the knock sensor work? That spot where you install it, did you make a hole threw the block?

I'm going to be running the same ECU I got the Tec3r. So I hope I can learn some things from your thread.

The knock sensor works by picking up particular frequencies that resonate through the block, heads, etc. when pre-detonation occurs. It's basically like a piezoelectric microphone. There are crystals inside that vary in voltage based on the vibration, and then the ECU interprets this voltage signal accordingly.

The one that Electromotive supplies (that I have) is a normal domestic style knock sensor. All of the sensors they supply are domestic - IAC, MAP, etc. - which is fine by me because they're easy to replace down the road.

You can mount the sensor in either the block or the heads, but sometimes when mounted too close to a cylinder it will false trigger. So, the block is the best bet. My $.02 is that ideally you'd mount it in the "V" between the heads, but the only way to do that is to drill into the water jacket. The sensor threads need to be able to ground out, so you can't really use teflon tape on the threads which makes it a bit prone to leaking. You could weld in an aluminum plug, but then you risk warping the block.

So, I mounted it down by one of the vestigial engine mounts that Ferrari cast on the block just in case they were going to mount the engine longitudinally at some point in some other car. There are three 10x1.25mm holes, so I drilled and tapped the top one out to 1/4" NPT (if I remember right). It doesn't go all the way through into the oil pan - it's just a blind hole.

[bretm]

Next up was to make the 1" intake spacers. I started with a 12"x6"x1" 6061 plate. There isn't quite enough room to lay out rectangles on the plate large enough for the spacers, so I laid out four parallelograms. The next largest size plate from McMaster is 36" long (instead of 12" long), and it's 3x the price.

I only have a hand-held band saw and it tends to walk a bit. So I cut the spacers out using a table saw - the circular saw type that swing down - with a metal blade in it.

Then I cleaned up the surfaces in the mill, laid the air intake holes out again, and laid out and drilled the bolt holes - I made them 6mm for now, but would drill them out later for an 8mm stud to pass through.

[bretm]

My mill isn't really big enough for a boring head, and setting the spacers up in the lathe with a face plate seemed like an aweful lot of work. Instead, I decided to use a rotobroach drill for the air intake holes.

I don't have a 1 5/8" bit, and they're around $150 a piece. So, I drilled them out 1 1/2" and then figured I'd use the mill to bring them out to roughly 1 5/8" (to match the plenum and runners).

[bretm]

Next I drilled the bolt holes out to .010" larger than 8mm, and removed the old studs from the plenum. One bolt hole (of the 8) had to be ovalled .010" using a 5/16" end mill. So, everything is a pretty snug fit and doesn't require locating dowels.

I had to mill the sides of two of the spacers to account for the air intake part of the plenum - the large round tube part running down the center of the underside of it. I used a 5/8" end mill.

Then it was time to etch-a-sketch my way to approx. 1 5/8". It takes quite awhile, but you can get them surprisingly round if you take your time. I use a sharpie to lay out how much I need to mill each time. They're all matched to the plenum now so they wont introduce any restriction beyond having the gaskets cause some minor reversion.

[bretm]

Then I installed some new 65mm studs (8x1.25mm) in the plenum.

The last step was to kiss cut all of the spacers on the mill, chamfer all of the edges, and lightly sand the bores of the air intake holes.

[bretm]

At this point the spacers were done, so next up would be the fuel rails.

[Pizzaman]

Originally Posted by bretm

The knock sensor works by picking up particular frequencies that resonate through the block, heads, etc. when pre-detonation occurs. It's basically like a piezoelectric microphone. There are crystals inside that vary in voltage based on the vibration, and then the ECU interprets this voltage signal accordingly.

The one that Electromotive supplies (that I have) is a normal domestic style knock sensor. All of the sensors they supply are domestic - IAC, MAP, etc. - which is fine by me because they're easy to replace down the road.

You can mount the sensor in either the block or the heads, but sometimes when mounted too close to a cylinder it will false trigger. So, the block is the best bet. My $.02 is that ideally you'd mount it in the "V" between the heads, but the only way to do that is to drill into the water jacket. The sensor threads need to be able to ground out, so you can't really use teflon tape on the threads which makes it a bit prone to leaking. You could weld in an aluminum plug, but then you risk warping the block.

So, I mounted it down by one of the vestigial engine mounts that Ferrari cast on the block just in case they were going to mount the engine longitudinally at some point in some other car. There are three 10x1.25mm holes, so I drilled and tapped the top one out to 1/4" NPT (if I remember right). It doesn't go all the way through into the oil pan - it's just a blind hole.

Thanks for the explanation Bret.

Looks like i got to dig out the Tec3r manual and do some reading.