F355 Exhaust thoughts - Ferrari Life
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post #1 of 52 Old 03-22-2016, 06:26 AM Thread Starter
 
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Exhaust thoughts

A little background. 1996 spider 6 spd. I am running Tubi headers, evoflow cats and a tubi exhaust. At first it sounded fine, then when the top went down I noticed it was a little raspy, and had a small exhaust leak. I put the car on the lift to change the oil and check out the exhaust. it was leaking around the clamp that goes on the end of the CAT. One side was broken (I tried welding it previously, but I think it had been overtorqued and mangled too much).

I decided to remove the bumper and the muffler to evaluate the entire system. I ordered new clamps and gaskets for the bypass. I have a couple of questions:

1. When I tighten the system, the exhaust hangers seem to pull the end of the exhaust up, and that puts pressure on clamps that were broken. Should I leave the round donuts loose and tighten from the end back towards the header? I barely have any clearance between the cat and the motor mounts. I really think the new clamps will solve most of these issues, and I probably should have bought them originally instead of trying to weld them.

2. I have a stock muffler in very good condition. I have never heard a 355 with a stock muffler. I am thinking of trying it out. Is it really that bad of a sound? I am not a loud muffler guy, I like a good sound, but I hate leaks, raspy tone, and rattles. \

Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated. Thank you.
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post #2 of 52 Old 03-22-2016, 02:26 PM
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Presuming everything is in place with the bumper back on, leave everything finger tight except the Y bypass pipe / valve / muffler connection which should be snug. The donut connections are there to allow some variation in the other adjustments. The following presupposes the correct geometry exists between the Y pipe and headers. This means the Y pipe width closely matches the side to side header distance and the valve connection is centered in and perfectly square with the car. If not square, the offending flange (s) on the header (s) MUST be adjusted either forward or back as required to achieve this. If the width is off just a little, the donuts may take this up. If not, there will be leaks unless something can be done to correct it (can be a real problem between different aftermarket products).


First, set the muffler position with the several adjustments at the spring supports tightened to have the tips align in the bumper slots correctly both horizontally and vertically (I match the top gap to the sides). Then set the adjustable flange location on the rear of the cats such that the muffler tips extend out correctly (not too far, not to short...I like about an inch) and fully tighten. This adjustment "tilts" the muffler on the springs a bit so you may need to readjust the springs so they are perfectly vertical. Now tighten the clamps between the cat flanges and muffler fully. Next, make sure the Y pipe / valve / muffler connection has fully compressed the springs against the internal sleeves (depending on whether or not you have replaced the sealing rings on both sides of the valve, if not, you may need to tighten this just a bit more to ensure it doesn't leak). Last, tighten the cat and Y pipe connections to the headers to fully compress their springs to the internal sleeves and perhaps a bit more to ensure the donuts are fully sealed (you can always do this afterwards if you hear leaks using a piece of hose between the connections and your ear).






I should point out the header flanges for both the cats and Y pipe connections should ideally be located so the 2" pipe extends past the flange and into the inside of the donuts sufficiently to align them and prevent them from collapsing under compression / heat over time. I think that covers it. Good luck.
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post #3 of 52 Old 03-22-2016, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
 
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HJP, Thank you very much for that detailed response. That makes perfect sense, and reinforces that I was doing it wrong and I am now on the right track. Once I get the new hardware, I will take my time and follow your instructions. Thanks again.
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post #4 of 52 Old 03-23-2016, 10:43 AM
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By the way, I had a Tubi and the droan was too much for me so I replaced it with a stock OEM muffler. This cured the droan and, with the valve open, the sound under full throttle had very nearly the same famous Ferrari scream. I like it much better this way, kinda like having your cake and eating it too. :-) That's my 2 cents.
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post #5 of 52 Old 03-23-2016, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
 
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hjp, I didn't want to admit it, but I am going to reassemble with the stock muffler and see if I like it better.
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post #6 of 52 Old 03-23-2016, 03:14 PM
 
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Quote:
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hjp, I didn't want to admit it, but I am going to reassemble with the stock muffler and see if I like it better.

Please let us know how you like the stock muffler.

I am thinking of putting mine back on as well.
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post #7 of 52 Old 03-23-2016, 05:20 PM
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Gentlemen and friends: allow me to inject a bit of youth here (although I'm 46), please don't lose sight of what makes the 355 such a great experience - the sound.

Take any ideal of a stock muffler and squash it.

My no muffler 98 is obnoxious. I understand many do not want this. My 95 with Capristo is a nice mild tone at idle and cruise but goes insane when getting on the car.

That is the answer for you guys
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post #8 of 52 Old 03-24-2016, 08:41 AM
 
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Gentlemen and friends: allow me to inject a bit of youth here (although I'm 46), please don't lose sight of what makes the 355 such a great experience - the sound.

Take any ideal of a stock muffler and squash it.

My no muffler 98 is obnoxious. I understand many do not want this. My 95 with Capristo is a nice mild tone at idle and cruise but goes insane when getting on the car.

That is the answer for you guys
In what way Dave does the stock muffler squash the sound?
It's been years since I had that fitted to my car and I can't remember!
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post #9 of 52 Old 03-24-2016, 09:14 AM
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In what way Dave does the stock muffler squash the sound?
It's been years since I had that fitted to my car and I can't remember!
Just too tame.....
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post #10 of 52 Old 03-24-2016, 10:06 AM
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Just too tame.....
With all due respect Dave, I'd say that's a matter of opinion and personal taste. Me? I want to be able to drive around town and carry on an ordinary conversation with someone when I'm just driving around town on errands and taking it easy. But when I want to play and put my foot into it, that's what the bypass is for. The stock muffler lets you do all this with very little sacrifice in the famous Ferrari scream (at least compared to the Tubi I had). I also like to hear more of the actual engine and transaxle sound mixed in rather than just a loud exhaust swamping everything else.








But I wouldn't for a minute take anything away from those that prefer to maximize the scream. I admit it can be great fun. I just don't want to do it all the time.
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post #11 of 52 Old 03-24-2016, 12:10 PM
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With all due respect Dave, I'd say that's a matter of opinion and personal taste.
Of course. The Capristo is pretty tame for situations you describe but all hell breaks loose once the bypass opens.
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post #12 of 52 Old 03-24-2016, 03:05 PM
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Of course. The Capristo is pretty tame for situations you describe but all hell breaks loose once the bypass opens.


Really? I wish I could hear one. Maybe I'd change.
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post #13 of 52 Old 03-24-2016, 03:41 PM
 
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How easy is it to change the 355 muffler?

I know the bumper has to come off but is the actual removal of the muffler and the installation of the new muffler pretty straight forward?

What can go wrong...other than stubborn nuts and bolts?
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post #14 of 52 Old 03-24-2016, 05:24 PM
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How easy is it to change the 355 muffler?

I know the bumper has to come off but is the actual removal of the muffler and the installation of the new muffler pretty straight forward?

What can go wrong...other than stubborn nuts and bolts?


Its not that difficult. I did it with 2 people the first time (worried about weight) and by myself twice after (bumper not that heavy). The only thing you need to watch out for is when everything has been disconnected and you are ready to disconnect the muffler, you need something to support it so it won't fall on the ground. I used a pair of floor jacks and carefully lowered it down until it cleared so I could grab hold and pull it out from under the car (don't try to take it out the top). Oh, and don't forget to disconnect the lights in the bumper.
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post #15 of 52 Old 03-24-2016, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
 
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It isn't hard, especially with a lift. I have become quite good at it lately. Maybe a dozen bolts/screws and two electrical connectors. I will post up how I like the stock exhaust.
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post #16 of 52 Old 03-24-2016, 09:15 PM
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By the way, I have an extra stock OEM muffler in very good shape if anyone wants one.
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post #17 of 52 Old 03-24-2016, 11:57 PM
 
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Its not that difficult. I did it with 2 people the first time (worried about weight) and by myself twice after (bumper not that heavy). The only thing you need to watch out for is when everything has been disconnected and you are ready to disconnect the muffler, you need something to support it so it won't fall on the ground. I used a pair of floor jacks and carefully lowered it down until it cleared so I could grab hold and pull it out from under the car (don't try to take it out the top). Oh, and don't forget to disconnect the lights in the bumper.

Can the muffler be removed/replaced with the car sitting on the ground with the rear wheels on or does it need to be jacked up?
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post #18 of 52 Old 03-25-2016, 05:49 AM
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Can the muffler be removed/replaced with the car sitting on the ground with the rear wheels on or does it need to be jacked up?
Howard,

To remove the rear bumper, you need to take out some of the inner wheel liners, so, yes, the wheels need to be off. Plus, you need access inside to get at stuff. You can do this with the car on jack stands...

Boy am I glad I bought a lift
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post #19 of 52 Old 03-25-2016, 06:56 AM
 
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I removed my bumper with wheels on.
Removed liners...undid bumper nuts put wheel back on...removed bumper

Will this work to get the muffler on and off?
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post #20 of 52 Old 03-25-2016, 07:27 AM
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Howard,

You won't be able to (easily) access all that is needed without the car on jack stands and wheels removed. That is a pretty quick and painless step so just go for it
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