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Old 02-15-2012, 01:34 PM   #21
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@Boxer - Only about 400 miles so far. Business travel and such keeping me from driving as much as I'd like.

BTW, does anyone know the Tyco part number for the improved F1 pump relay?

Cheers,

Jeff
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Old 02-15-2012, 01:42 PM   #22
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Jeff.
let me see if I can be at help.
Tyco #194909-s1. 50amp.
Tyco #v23134-b57-x152 uses by Ferrari #155437.
double check this number ok. I am fairly new at this stuff, so don't souly rely on me...

Mike

Last edited by Mikelong; 02-15-2012 at 01:48 PM.
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Old 02-15-2012, 01:46 PM   #23
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Jeff- V23134-B57-X266. Juri has them for sale for ~$50 and also has a 50 amp relay that fits the 30 amp connector. The OEM 50 amp relay will not fit the old connector for the 5 pin, V23134-B57-X203 OEM 30 amp relay.


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Old 02-15-2012, 02:44 PM   #24
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Terry.
there are 60amp relay outthere with same schematic as the 50amp 4pron. Is it safe to use???

Mike
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Old 02-15-2012, 03:14 PM   #25
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Default 60A vs. 50A

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikelong View Post
Terry.
there are 60amp relay outthere with same schematic as the 50amp 4pron. Is it safe to use???

Mike
Mike - you'll have to rely on the other members' observations with relays in their F-cars, but based on my experience at work, upgrading the relay with a unit of the same footprint but higher current capacity should be fine. It could even be helpful, in that the 60A relay internals will be a bit 'beefier' than the 50A unit, and therefore last longer for the same load.
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Old 02-15-2012, 04:23 PM   #26
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Mike, Paul- People have tried substituting other 50 amp relays for the 30 amp relay only to have them quickly fail. No idea on whether the 60 amp relay you found is suitable or not. As both of you know, relays are not for safety, like a fuze, so substituting a 60 amp relay that works is not an issue. You might drop a PM or E-Mail to Juri, who has tried a ton of relays, and see if the 60 amp relay is worth trying.

If a relay fails, the F1 pump tends to keep running and eventually burns out the motor. The use cycle on the F1 motor is actually fairly brief as it pumps up hydraulic pressure to 900 psi or so and then shuts off until pressure drops below a certain level. The motor was not designed for continuous service. See below as I figure out when the 30 amp relay was replaced in the 575M and Juri's solutions.

575M F1 30 Amp Relays


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Old 02-16-2012, 06:52 AM   #27
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Terry.
So, if the F1 relay failure in the stuck "on" position causing the F1 pump to run continious...a buzzing sound can be heard on the passenger right rear corner correct?
this is perhaps one of the way I can monitor or at least notice a sign of F1 pump relay failure. Is that good to say so?
I also will take your advise to purchase one and leave it in the tool kit as a spare.
Tery, base on your experience, when most suspect of this relay failure? is it after immediate drive shut down, or park ornight, or just simply park for a long period of time...
Oh, by the ways, thank you Tery for the manual download....I have not have a chance to go thru it, but I will

Mike
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Old 02-16-2012, 01:24 PM   #28
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Mike- What happens is the relay contacts fuse together and that allows current to flow continuously to the pump motor. It could happen at any time and the buzzing you reference is a good indicator. When you open the door on your car, your F1 pump will turn on to bring hydraulic pressure up in the system, so memorize that sound. (Also why you do not want to open the door a bunch without driving the car, can run down the battery.)

After running continuously for a while, the next symptom will be the 30 amp fuze blowing because the windings on the pump motor are failing. Either that or the system will start shifting into neutral as pressure gets low. At that point, you probably have a few shifts left before the hydraulic pressure gets too low. Making one of those shifts into neutral is probably a good idea, so they can at least get her on the tow truck.

Change the relay to a good one or regularly change the OEM relay and likely you will have no problems.

Note the system shifting into neutral is also a symptom of the clutch being worn, misadjusted, or the F1 lines having air in them.


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Old 02-16-2012, 01:48 PM   #29
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Those are excellent trouble shooting guide.
Thank you, Tery
Yeah, I do notice a buzz sound every time I open the driver side door. I have been in and out of the car alot, just because....you know. After, reading the manual, I started using the passenger side door instead when not intend to move the car....
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Old 02-23-2012, 03:04 PM   #30
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Mike, welcome to Ferrari Life, and congrats on your 360. As they say practice does make perfect. At Borelli Motor Sports we think hands down the best way to learn this and your car is to get some on track driver coaching. We do have a list of pro driver instructers that we can set you up with if you would like.

If you want us to put you in contact or set this up for you let us know and we will. Feel free to call us at 408-770-1220 ask for Addison, or you can email him at addison@borellimotorsports.com.

good luck with the car
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Old 02-27-2012, 09:09 PM   #31
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Mike......I carry BOTH an extra fuse and the pump relay. Sometimes when you have a bad relay (and if you are lucky) it will blow the fuse before burning out the pump motor.

Taz has a wealth of knowledge as I recall from another Fchatsite. If you should ever need any info on weapons systems on a F-111 - he can help you out there too!

Interesting folks and backgrounds when it comes to F-cars, I have observed.
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Old 02-28-2012, 08:16 AM   #32
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Thank you for the offer 50hdmc. I will keep it in mind.
I finally had an hour to fiddle around with the car on Monday. Warm it up and went to my wife work to have luch with her.
I notice the eng idle about 1000-1100rpm in normal operating temp and the oil pressure gauge ( has a "0" then the 1st marking, then "70", and so on...) my needle reads most time at the 1st marking or alittle above, when idling. Is this normal???
I also, took advise from you folks not using the "auto", I used the paddle shift, getting a little hang of it...truethfully like you guys mentioned, I LOVE IT!!!!.
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Old 02-28-2012, 08:35 AM   #33
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Mike- Knew that once you got used to the F1 system, you would love it.

Here are what the readings on your gauges mean. In general, the car can be considered completely warmed up when oil temperature makes it to the third mark, ~157 degrees F.

What Do Your English Gauges Read?


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Old 02-28-2012, 01:15 PM   #34
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Thanks Terry.
Yeah, I read that in the owner's manual, that they recommend oil temp reaches 150 prior operating the vehicle.
My gauges setup is a little different. My gauges does not have as small increment like yours. I like to way your gauges look, easier to identify the reading.
I still have not have a chance to take some pics yet. but I will do so...
RPM, I feel it's a little too high...
Does your oil pressure gauge bounces/fluxuate at time, because my bounces a little.
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