[AWay]

It seems like Redline is a fan favorite for our gearboxes and I've used it with positive results in other vehicles in the past.

I'm curious though, is it the standard 75w/90 or the 75w/90NS that is better suited? I ask because I've read several threads where people recommend the NS fluid, which specifically lacks the friction modifiers of the standard 75w/90, but then also recommend adding a bottle of friction modifier to it. Why not just use the standard 75w/90 which already contains the friction modifiers to begin with?

Just looking for a little clarification/recommendations from people who have had success changing the fluid in their gearbox.

[ALEX A]

Both are great oils for the gear box.

[JaguarDriver]

Originally Posted by AWay

It seems like Redline is a fan favorite for our gearboxes and I've used it with positive results in other vehicles in the past.

I'm curious though, is it the standard 75w/90 or the 75w/90NS that is better suited? I ask because I've read several threads where people recommend the NS fluid, which specifically lacks the friction modifiers of the standard 75w/90, but then also recommend adding a bottle of friction modifier to it. Why not just use the standard 75w/90 which already contains the friction modifiers to begin with?

Just looking for a little clarification/recommendations from people who have had success changing the fluid in their gearbox.

The NS is the one to use. The diff gears are of the hypoid type and the standard 75/90 is not a hypoid oil. Using a non-hypoid oil in a diff that needs hypoid will cause the gear facings to wear needing eventual replacement. Friction modifiers effect the synchros and should only be used if needed and then only as little as possible. Redline list the 75/90NS on their site for the Ferrari specifically. Not sure what better recommendation there could be.

[StefVan]

As I wrote you Alex, I stick with the Shell Spirax S5 ATE 75W90 Gear/Transaxle oil which is the right oil for the F430 gearbox. It has the right quantity of friction modifiers. And is reasonnably priced. Don't we change our gearbox oil every year? That's what counts most.

[AWay]

The Shell Spirax is a bit hard to come by here whereas the Redline products are readily available.

[tazandjan]

Stef- I think there are transaxle fluids that are superior to the Shell product, and Redline is one of them. I use Valvoline Synthetic 75W-90 in mine, and prefer that to the Shell transaxle oil. The Shell named products in the US are the low end lubricants from Shell Oil and high end products like the transaxle oil you use are difficult to find here except in bulk quantities. Shell's high end lubricants are Quaker State and Pennzoil in the US. both, obviously, owned by Shell.

[StefVan]

Sure Terry, I agree that oil availability depends on the markets.

What about Amsoil Synthetic Manual Transmission and Transaxle Gear Lube 75W-90 API GL-4 (MTG) ? I've read very good reports about this product but never tried.

[rj45]

Do the US Ferrari dealerships use the good, imported shell fluids or the lower quality US versions? TIA

[tazandjan]

US versions are not lower quality. Branding has nothing to do with quality. It is strictly about marketing. If a lubricant meets standards, it should work fine. It is just that there are better deals. and sometimes better lubricants, for most applications. As an example, the Shell Synthetic Helix Ultra oil is rebranded in the US as Quaker State Q. Same stuff, different container. One is $20/liter, and the other is $8/qt. I have tried both the Shell and the Quaker State Q and both foamed too much for me and my techs, so we switched to Valvoline, which does not foam and has done well in comparison tests.

Similarly, Shell Donax UB brake fluid tends to leave a gummy residue, so we switched to Castrol LMA, which bubbled too much, and then to ATE Blue, which works great.

You and your techs have to review what goes into your car and make sure it is not causing problems.

If you look at Bradan's service and restoration threads, they swear by Redline lubricants. I swear by Valvoline. As long as you are making educated choices, you will be fine. If an FNA dealer is doing the servicing, you will get Shell products.

Like Stef says, if you change fluids regularly, you will not have problems as long as your lubricant/fluid meets specs and standards.

[AWay]

I selected the 75W90 NS oil. While we're on topic, does anyone know off hand the gearbox drain bolt hex size? I'll need to pick up a bit if I don't have one handy.

Thanks!

[tazandjan]

Andrew- Here is what I have on F430 transaxle oil changes. Did not check to see if it has the hex wrench size. You might want to pick up a set that you can use with your torque wrench.

Nope, no hex bolt size.

[StefVan]

Sorry Andrew, I don't remember which exact Allen size I'm using for the gearbox as I'm using the entire set which has all sizes. It is a large one for sure. If you have doubts and don't want to buy an entire set of hex sockets, you can easily measure the plug and buy the exact size.

[AWay]

Thanks gents! I'll sort it out and post up the hex size once I've finished. I just wanted to be prepared ahead of time.

[AWay]

Finished this up yesterday and just wanted to add my notes.

The drain bolt takes a 14mm hex bit. It would be advisable to have a longer (2 inches+ if possible) hex bit as clearance is a small issue with the gearbox housing. The extra bit length will help engage the drain bolt at a straighter and more positive angle.

Otherwise very straight forward. The bolt to remove the mesh filter is an 8mm. And finally, the dipstick/fill bolt takes a 12mm hex bit to remove.

I believe the guide says the gearbox takes 3.5 liters to fill but I assume that is bone dry and factory fill. I was only able to re-fill with 2.75 liters of new Redline 75W90 NS fluid before it got between the max and min lines. (closer to max than min) That was with the car being relatively warm still from a drive and blowing air through the union as described in the DIY to remove as much old fluid as possible.

With the right tools on hand to begin with I reckon this would be a 2 hour job at most for the average DIY guy.

[tazandjan]

Andrew- Thanks for the info in hex sizes and glad it went smoothly. As you discovered, it is virtually impossible to get all the oil out, but most of the oil in there is new, so works fine.