[StefVan]

As many owners of manual 430’s, I experienced also difficulties to shift with precision or shifting irregularities. My shifter had some side to side play (wiggle) but worst, it wasn’t going back in the centre position in front of the 3/4th shift position. After the second gear, I had to bring myself the shifter to the centre, and shift the 3rd gear. These problems are very common on all manual 360’s and 430’s.

One of the issues is the fork or also called bushing which is part of the shifter. This part is in plastic and sooner or later will break. Fortunately, Hill Engineering make a billet aluminium bushing which should last forever (sold also by Daniel – Ricambi). The other issue I found out is the lack of good quality grease. Several plastic and metallic parts acting on each other, will suffer quickly from the lack of grease.

To find out if you have such shifting issues, try this : in neutral centre position, wiggle side to side. If you have play, the bushing is most likely broken. Another typical symptom are the difficulties to shift from 1st to 2th gear and from 5th to 6th gear.


The purpose of this is guide is to help people who are rather “hands-on” and who would like to improve the shifting. Rather than writing long paragraphs of text, I prefer to demonstrate the DIY through many pictures. Each picture of each step is quite self-explanatory. I added also a couple tips to help getting everything back together (the most difficult part).

The entire operation can be done in the car as there is no need to remove the entire shift assembly. But as your hands will get very greasy, protect seats and the centre console with lots of rags.


This guide can also be used for the 360 but the centre console removal is slightly different. Although, the shifter system is identical.


These pictures show one of the symptoms of my shifter. In neutral, it is not going into the centre.



The first step is to remove the shift ball. Loosen the 17mm nut below it and unscrew the ball.
Remove the 4 screws of the shift gate.
Remove the screw inside the ashtray and remove it.


Remove the 2 connectors under the ashtray.
Remove the “10” nut marked in the red circle.


Slide your hand under the console and push the small long leather panel upwards. This panel is simply glued with double side tape.
Now you’ll see a screw as marked in the red circle. Remove this screw.


Remove the smaller leather panel at the back of the console behind the handbrake. You can use any kind of plastic tool but be careful not to chow the leather. This panel is also glued with double side tape.
Remove the torx screw under it as indicated in the picture


Cut the clip that hold the leather around the handbrake. You can replace it later with any new one. Leave the handbrake in the maximum brake position.


Remove the control panel containing the mirror controls/cigarette light outlet/hazards/P light from under the console. As show on the picture, this panel is hold by several metalic clips.


Slide out this control panel through it’s hole space and put it on the side. There is no really need to remove the connectors.


Now slide out the entire console towards the front. Make sure not to scratch the dashboard while doing this.


We are now ready to start doing the real shifter job.

[StefVan]

Under the shifter assembly we’ll have to pop out the right side shift cable out of its socket. As shown on the picture, we’ll have to do this by applying a great force downwards. Later we’ll remove also the left side shift cable towards the right.



I used two large screwdrivers to apply a balanced force on both sides of the socket. Use the shifter assembly as a lever and apply a huge amount of force on the socket to pop the shifter out of the socket.



The left side socket is very easy to remove. It is hold in place by a small plastic part which can be pushed out from the opposite side using a screwdriver.



In the next step, we have to remove the seeger ring which is holding the centre plate. Behind this centre plate, there is a strong spring (keep this in mind).



Remove this seeger ring using the appropriate tool and be ready to receive the metallic round plate and spring. Remove the round plate and spring.



The other side of the pin that slides through the shifter has a small plastic square on the pin ball. Slide the pin towards the right so that the other end gets out of the black box which will make the small square appearing.



Pop the small plastic square off the pin.


Square removed:



Remove now the pin that slides through the shifter out of the assembly towards the right side.



Here are all the shifter parts we have now removed

[StefVan]

To replace the fork or bushing of the shift handle, we’ll have to remove a small pin holding the spring and bushing together.



With a 2mm punch, tap out this pin and remove the upper part, spring and bushing. Replace the bushing and put the spring and upper part back. Tap in again the pin.




Here is the OEM and Hill Engineering bushing. As you can see, mine finally was intact but while we here, it is better to change it with a steel version as sooner or later, the OEM will crack.



All removed shift parts together. Useful to organise the reassembly which can be done by following the above steps in reversed order. Before reassemblying all parts, make sure to remove all old grease, clean each single part and grease all parts individually before reassembly.



Slide in again the shift handle in the assemble as well as the pin through the handle.
You won’t be able to put back the black square on the pin ball with your hands as it is very tight. I used a small piece of wood to block the square against the pin and with another piece of wood, I tapped it back in.



To put back the seeger ring, I used a small wood stick to apply a good force on the round plate which must go inwards before the seeger ring will get into his place.



Make sure to put plenty of good quality synthetic grease on all parts in movement including the shift handle, the shift handle holder, the round plate of the centre pin, the left side black box holding the square and the sockets on the shift cables. I greased also the cables so that there is no resistance when they slide inside the plastic holders.



The black upper part got also a bit of grease as the shift handle will slide against it when going into reverse gear.

[StefVan]

Now ready for a test drive



Well, the difference is huge!!! I had the feeling to have almost a new car with absolutely perfect shifting. This was one of the few frustrations I had with the manual F430. Now, shifting is very precise and super fast. I didn’t felt the hesitating second or six gear engaging. It goes now straight in.


And the best of the best is that my shifter is now going back to the centre neutral postion on itself as you can see in this small video

Youtube Video:

F430 Manual - Shifter repair with new Hill Engineering bushing and shifter system re-ajustment - YouTube

Any questions? Don't hesitate to ask

[StefVan]

PS: While everything is removed, take also the chance to grease the handbrake cable and pulley

[430Addict]

Good work Stef! Impressive as always.

Didn't know the gates glowed red. Is that factory or another one of your LED mods?

[voicey]

This is an easy DIY job for anyone who is half decent with the spanners. One minor correction to the text is that the Hill bushing is machined from aluminium, not steel. In any case, if you have a manual 360/430 you should put this job on your "to do" list.

[StefVan]

Originally Posted by 430Addict

Good work Stef! Impressive as always.

Didn't know the gates glowed red. Is that factory or another one of your LED mods?

Thanks buddy .
At least someone who's watching carefully ! It's not factory but one of the numerous interior light improvements I made in my car (remember the timed and fading footwell lights and dome light when doors are opened )

[fulllock]

Nice work StefVan,

I own a 360 and have a similar problem, the shifter always goes back in place to the center but the change from 1st to 2nd and be difficult at times.

I was thinking of playing around with adjustments on the gearbox, because its only 1st to 2nd, but if I hold the shifter hard over to left its some what better...

any thoughts ???

[StefVan]

Originally Posted by fulllock

Nice work StefVan,

I own a 360 and have a similar problem, the shifter always goes back in place to the center but the change from 1st to 2nd and be difficult at times.

I was thinking of playing around with adjustments on the gearbox, because its only 1st to 2nd, but if I hold the shifter hard over to left its some what better...

any thoughts ???

Thanks very much

Before adjusting the shift cables, I really would start first checking the shifter bushing as there may be a good chance this part is broken. These cables are quite difficult to adjust and even 1mm can make a big difference. On the 360 you'll have to remove also the underbody panel to do this. Do you have play in the shifter (wiggle) in neutral?

[fulllock]

The shifter is not that bad but I will check the bushers be for I touch the gearbox, if they are worn where can I get some bushers from in Australia???

[StefVan]

You can order the shifter bushing directly on the Hill Engineering UK website as well as RicambiAmerica.com who distribute them too.

[StefVan]

174967 - 174967 Bushing by: Hill Engineering - Hill Engineering

[Jack Russell Racing]

Stef - Excellent write up !! May I use some of your pictures on our website and link back to FerrariLife, crediting you?

The bushings are available here in the USA too: Ferrari Parts : 174967 : 174967 REVERSE GEAR BUSHING

[a1exander]

Excellent work and minutely documented.
Well done to you.

[StefVan]

Thanks very much Peter and Daniel

Sure Daniel, you can use these pictures and reference this DIY guide on FerrariLife.

[fulllock]

Originally Posted by StefVan

174967 - 174967 Bushing by: Hill Engineering - Hill Engineering

Thank u...

[StefVan]

Just to remind to everyone and also to new members that all these DIY guides are now part of the F430 Book - "F430 DIY Guides and Mods" Chapter.

The F430 Book can be accessed directly here : Collections:F430 - Ferrari Life

And the "F430 DIY Guides and Mods" Book Chapter here :
F430 DIY Guides and Mods - Ferrari Life

If one day, you want to do one of these jobs, no need to make searches as you can go straight to the F430 Book.

This book can also be accessed from the main Forum page :
1. Ferrari Knowledge Base - Ferrari Life
2. Books - Ferrari Life

And select the F430 Book.

Still a lot more stuff in the pipeline to be added to this book.

Stef

[StefVan]

A little tip regarding the wire harness of the centre console. I discovered that 3 wires where partly cut. Obviously, from the traces on the wires insulator, these wires got damaged as they must have been pinched when the console has been put back some time ago at the shop. As these wires are right above and very close to the shifter cables, double check that they can’t get in contact. I moved the wire harness on the side, away from the 2 shifter cables, to avoid any future issues.


As the roads where dry today, I got the chance to go for a real test drive on some mountains roads. The difference is night and day. Now I can shift again at 500ms . It is now shifting so fast and so easy that I have to readjust the synchro of my heel/toeing in order to get a good rev matching. Cleaning and quality grease at the right locations of the shifter assembly is the secret here (in addition of course to the Hill Eng. bushing)

[Tio]

Originally Posted by StefVan

A little tip regarding the wire harness of the centre console. I discovered that 3 wires where partly cut. Obviously, from the traces on the wires insulator, these wires got damaged as they must have been pinched when the console has been put back some time ago at the shop. As these wires are right above and very close to the shifter cables, double check that they can’t get in contact. I moved the wire harness on the side, away from the 2 shifter cables, to avoid any future issues.


As the roads where dry today, I got the chance to go for a real test drive on some mountains roads. The difference is night and day. Now I can shift again at 500ms . It is now shifting so fast and so easy that I have to readjust the synchro of my heel/toeing in order to get a good rev matching. Cleaning and quality grease at the right locations of the shifter assembly is the secret here (in addition of course to the Hill Eng. bushing)

Wow, excellent write up Stef!
Immaculate and analytical in depth as ever!
What an asset you are.
Yes, you are right about Hill Engineering, they always come to the rescue.
They are also manufacturing my wheel bolts as we speak, should have them by Tuesday!