[rmfurzeland]

Hi guys,
Tried to adjust my handbrake tonight without success, the workshop manual (page 16 of part 2) describes 2 ways:
1. adjust clearance of handbrakes shoes by turning adjuster (toothed sleeve) with a screwdriver through hole in "disc" - I guess they mean hub
2. adjust slack in cable by left and right adjusters on 2 cables above axle

Way 1 problems: I removed the passenger rear wheel and peered through the hole at the top and could not see any adjuster to move? I checked all holes only the bottom hole has something like a spring.

Way 2 problems: I removed the rear undercover and tried to remove the slack that seemed to be there in the cable . First trick seemed to be to leave the handbrake on annd then on one side I seemed to be able to turn the adjuster (after loosening the 2 locknuts). But on the slack side turning the adjuster just twists the cable and it immediately untwists.

So All I have to show is one bruised hand
Any tips or ideas would be appreciated,
Thanks,
Ron

[tazandjan]

Ron- All you young whippersnappers have never had the pleasure of adjusting the drum brakes on early American cars. Learned how on my Dad's 1961 Corvette when I was a teenager, and practiced on many other cars, including my own 61 and 63 Corvettes in the late 60s and early 70s.

See if this helps. It shows you where the access hole is to reach the star wheel that adjusts the brake shoes. If that does not do it and you need to adjust the cable, let us know, but the shoe adjustment will probably do the trick.

[rmfurzeland]

Hi Taz,
Thanks for the fast reply and the compliment of being "young" , but actually I am old enough to be receiving a pension and have worked on Old English 1960's Minis and MG Midgets and Rovers, yep I grew up in England, so not much chance to work on American muscle.

I was working from the same diagram you have shown (its also in the 550 workshop manual) but looking through that damm hole in the top of the drum drum I dont see the adjuster! Its the top hole right, just above the threaded holes where the wheel studs go, looking from the front. Can the shoes or adjuster drop down out of sight? Seems unlikely.

Studying the diagram some more I believe there is also slack in the cable that joins the 2 drums. But how does one stop the cable from twisting, need to disconnect cable and springs?
Regards,
Ron

[rmfurzeland]

PS I assume I only need to remove the wheel, no need to remove caliper or disc, right?

[tazandjan]

Ron- Beats me, since I have not adjusted one for a long time. Maybe one of the pros can help.

With a flashlight (sorry, torch), can you see the star wheel at all? They are usually pretty easy to feel with a screwdriver. Here is another photo of the mechanism with the drum removed so you can better see the layout. The star wheel should be right above the spring that connects the shoes.

I would adjust the shoes first rather than the cable. If you do the cable first, you are liable to not be able to release the handbrake.

[rmfurzeland]

Taz,
This youtube video is helpful to see what I should be able to see through the hole, the adjuster will be edge so only one tooth may be visible, and its probably quite a way in, so I will look again tomorrow in daylight

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lEdmsi_xtkc

Thanks,
Ron

[tazandjan]

Ron- Look back one post for photos.

[rmfurzeland]

Taz,
Yep, I did use a torch and felt around with a screwdriver, will look again in daylight,
Thanks,
Ron

[Bill]

I know this will not be much help, but a little while back my car was on the lift for something and the tech just put a screw driver in the rear wheel (took about 30 seconds) and I asked what he was doing ... adjusting the handbrake he said, It was that fast and made the pull half the distance is was before.

so it should be pretty easy.

good luck,

Bill

[Brian]

Ferrari instructions are rubbish.


None of the parking brakes were properly adjusted from the day of assembly so you need to start from scratch.


Back the cable adjuster way off. Then back it off a bunch more. Adjust the shoes until the wheel is solidly locked. Then back off 5 clicks.
After both brakes are properly adjusted adjust the cable so the handle only comes up 4 or 5 clicks. Then check that both wheels are locked. If only one is locked the hook at the end of the cable of the free wheel needs to be reattached at the brake linkage and the entire cable adjustment process needs to be redone.


If you take any shortcuts you too can work on an automotive assembly line.

[Brian]

Originally Posted by Bill

I know this will not be much help, but a little while back my car was on the lift for something and the tech just put a screw driver in the rear wheel (took about 30 seconds) and I asked what he was doing ... adjusting the handbrake he said, It was that fast and made the pull half the distance is was before.

so it should be pretty easy.

good luck,

Bill

Find a new mechanic. He has no idea how to do it correctly.

[Bill]

Originally Posted by Brian

Find a new mechanic. He has no idea how to do it correctly.

Oh I'm sure he knows how to do it correctly, And I'm sure he did it correctly !

My tech is Eric Sanders, one of the most respected Ferrari
mechanics in Los Angeles.

I'm also sure it was my bad saying it only took 30 sec ...

When I walked up to the car I might have just caught the last 30 sec.

cheers,

Bill

[Jimmy Chen Shiba DDS]

Originally Posted by Brian

Ferrari instructions are rubbish.


None of the parking brakes were properly adjusted from the day of assembly so you need to start from scratch.


Back the cable adjuster way off. Then back it off a bunch more. Adjust the shoes until the wheel is solidly locked. Then back off 5 clicks.
After both brakes are properly adjusted adjust the cable so the handle only comes up 4 or 5 clicks. Then check that both wheels are locked. If only one is locked the hook at the end of the cable of the free wheel needs to be reattached at the brake linkage and the entire cable adjustment process needs to be redone.


If you take any shortcuts you too can work on an automotive assembly line.

HO Ho Ho .... that's a good one, Brian. I am not a tinkerer and probably I should stay out of this thread, but based on your assumption, that means I can do the assembly line too !!! w/ smiles Jimmy

[rmfurzeland]

In better light I was able to find the adjusters for the drum shoes, the secret is to rotate the drum (hub) until the top inspection hole reveals a brass looking cog wheel. A small inspection light inserted into a nearby wheelstud threadhole helps visibility.
Its position is not exactly at 12 o'clock it is more like at 11.55. This explains why I couldnt see it. Also there seems to be quite a bit of friction from the gearbox/differential so its not easy to manual push the drum.

Once located, you need to push the cog wheel upwards with a stout screwdriver to take up the slack in the adjustment, mine was very stiff to get moving, but once I got it moving I could then push upwards until drum locks then back off 5 sprocket pushes.
Handbrake lever felt much more positive and the shoes now prevent the rim from slipping when the rim is manually pushed.

I was able to take up some slack in the cable from the handlever to the adjuster above the axle. The second cable adjuster, for the cable which joins the 2 drums, refused to adjust, pity as I could see some slack.
Anyway job is done. I also dont see how a mechanic could do this in 30 secs with the wheel(rim) still on , the hub of the wheel is too large and prevents access to the inspection hole in the drum. Its much easier to remove the wheel.

Thanks for your lively interest,
Ron

[Bill]

I also dont see how a mechanic could do this in 30 secs with the wheel(rim) still on , the hub of the wheel is too large and prevents access to the inspection hole in the drum. Its much easier to remove the wheel.

See post # 12.

my bad,

Bill

[rmfurzeland]

I was wondering how to test if the handbrake is adjusted and holding well, my state inspection guy says it should prevent the car from moving forward and make the engine stall. This would seem to be quite a task for the handbrake given the torque of a 550, is he right?
Thanks,
Ron

[tazandjan]

Ron- Find a hill. Park on it and see if it holds. Like Brian says, if the handbrake handle stops after four or five clicks, she should be ok.

[rmfurzeland]

Taz,
Yep, thats how us old timers always did it, unless we were living in Holland or Houston, but the young whippersnappers say it should resist 1300-1500 rpm of pull from the engine, here is an interesting snippet from Club Lexus: New, Used Lexus Reviews, Research, Performance, Parts - ClubLexus.com :

"I went to the TX DPS website to look up the requirements, and there was NOTHING about a 1500 RPM test of the parking brake. Here is what it says is required to pass:

Quote:
Parking brake will hold the vehicle in place when, with the engine running, the vehicle is placed in forward gear and the engine is accelerated enough to cause a pull on the braking mechanism.
When I returned to the shop just a few minutes ago with printout in hand to confront the manager, it became clear that the shop's state certified inspection guy was just a teenager who is probably fresh out of the certification class. When I asked him how he chose 1500 RPMs as a benchmark, he kept referring to what his instructor said was "usual". After about 10 minutes of making a scene, trying to explain that at 1800 RPMs my rear tires would be smoking, the manager convinced the kid to pass it."

Regards,
Ron

[tazandjan]

Ron- That sounds about right. At 1500 rpm a 550 is pushing 300 ft lbs of torque multiplied by 12.325 or so. That is a bunch of torque.

If all else fails, look it up. Even if Ferrari wrote it and it is only partially correct.