[NigelV12]

After a period of unreliable and intermittent operation, the fuel door actuator finally failed.
Yes, the part that goes for around $380 in the US and £380 in the UK.

There is a cheaper solution.

The symptoms were intermittent operation requiring multiple operation of the button, until final total failure to operate.
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On removal (described below), the actuator motor was found to have burned out, with almost zero ohms of resistance across the terminals. The new actuator has about 150 ohms resistance across the terminals. The panel switch operating the solenoid was also found to have burned out and no longer allowed current to flow under load, but did allow 11.5 volts to be measured across the connector at the actuator with a no load open circuit! The switch can be checked by swopping it with the boot lock switch which is identical. Instructions for removing these switches without damage can be found on several different forums. It is probable that the panel switch failed with the high current after the actuator motor shorted out. Check the actuator out of the car to ensure it is not just the switch which has failed. To do this, apply 12 volts with the correct polarity to the terminals. The black plunger should retract rapidly. By testing the new actuator with an adjustable power supply, it was found to work satisfactorily with as little as 8 volts. The 20 amps fuse that controls this circuit did not blow however.

The fuel lid actuator is on the same fuse as the windscreen wipers and the brake lights, it will therefore only operate with the ignition switch on.

The actuator is manufactured by KIEKERT of Germany. KEIKERT also supply Audi, BMW, Peugeot-Citroen and Range Rover among others. This part is very similar to the tail gate actuator on the Range Rover Classic of 1995 era and also similar to the tail gate actuator on the Audi A8/S8 of around 1998. Photos found on internet.
The Audi part number is 4A5962115. Found on the Internet in USA, UK and Germany at prices from $20 to £35. To use this part it requires changing the end fitting (described below) and also the wiring socket is different. The part numbers for the new wiring connector are VW/Audi part numbers 893971632 plug case, and 000979021E cable with end fittings. Together they retail for €6.25. The local VW dealer had these two items in stock.

The Switches are manufactured by BJE Germany. Busch-Jaeger Electro is an ABB subsidiary. The number on the inside of the switch (not the Ferrari part number) is 0501-4-0295 and has the form of what BJE, on their website, call an order number and not an BJE part number.


To modify and change the actuator, proceed as follows:
1 Unclip the electric connection to the actuator unit in the boot, behind the trim at the top on the right hand side.
2. Open petrol filler cover and remove the three black dome head nuts, with flat washers, which retain the actuator mounting bracket. 8 mm spanner. The bolts are captive in the actuator mounting and will not rotate.

3. Withdraw the actuator mounting via the boot and remove the actuator from the mounting. Two Philips head screws with washers, spring washers and nuts. 7 mm spanner.
4. Identify the black retaining plunger mounted on the end of the actuator and remove it from the actuator unit. See photo. This will probably involve breaking the end of the green actuator arm. Take care not to damage the black fitting and cable.
The black plunger has the emergency manual opening cable attached to it.
5. Break open the old solenoid unit and remove the wire connector which is attached to the motor. Unsolder the wires at the connector end. Photo.
6. Remove the black (Audi) actuator pivot from the green actuator arm of the new solenoid unit, by cutting through the black piece of plastic. Take care not to cut or damage the green actuator arm.
7. Attach the black actuator, recovered from the old actuator, onto the green actuator arm of the new unit, taking care not to break anything.
8. Manufacture a short adaptor cable to connect the Ferrari wiring harness plug to the Audi actuator socket as follows:
Take care with the polarity, if you get it wrong the actuator will not work!
Assemble the two connector parts from VW/Audi. The two metal contacts are crimped onto the ends of a single wire. Once installed in the plastic plug, clip the middle of the wire. The plastic plug has numbers 1 and 2 for the wires.
On the Ferrari wiring harness, in the boot, the black cable is the ground and white/blue cable supplies +12 volts when the panel button is pressed. Solder the wire number 1 to the back of the connector removed from the old actuator, which when connected lines up with the blue/white wire. This is normally the side of the plug with an indent. Solder wire number 2 to the other terminal. See photo.
When all connected up, the Audi terminal 1 should connect to the white/blue cable.
Connect up the new actuator, to the actuator circuit and check you have the polarity correct and that the actuator operates.
9. Disconnect the actuator unit and the wire connector once more. Cover the whole with heat shrink tube and shrink the tube in place.
10. Plug the VW/Audi connector into the back of the new solenoid unit once more.
11. Remount the actuator unit onto the mounting bracket.
12. Remount the actuator unit bracket into the car and reconnect the wiring and reinstall the boot trim.
Check for proper operation.

Hope the above is clear.

Total time about two hours, total cost about €40. The modification is reversible the day you decide to buy a €400 actuator unit.
Nigel

[NigelV12]

photos

[NigelV12]

second try!

[a1exander]

Nigel brilliant write up!

I just love it when a $400 part is acquired for $40

Thank you for the step by step guide.