| | #1 |
| Owner Elite Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: far and away
Ferrari Life Posts: 5,047
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well, look at me. While trying to 'fix' Ferrari's 'fix' on my gap window issue today, I 'accidentally' locked that same side's door lock mechanism. NOW, I cannot unlock the door's lock. I've tried the battery reset, no go. I've tried unlocking the lock with the arm rest lever, obviously laying next to the door off the panel, and no go. I've tried the key and depressing the jam button and well, just about everything.did the usual searches and mostly on adjustment problems for door not locking. I do know that Ferrari manual states to never lock or mess with the locks in certain situations or you'll need a dealer to reset the locks. Don't feel like carting the car to the dealer as that's what it'll take for the door will not close. I'll try resetting the ECU's but don't feel that might work either. Anyone, have luck unlocking a locked door. The 456 seems to be the only one in that camp, but could be wrong.... rik Guide to the Galaxy: Don't Panic Rik -- LAH ! Current: 1990 Mondial T Cabriolet : Red/Tan 1995 456 GT 2+2 : Roso Metalizzato [Fer 311/C] & Tan |
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| | #2 |
| Owner Elite Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: far and away
Ferrari Life Posts: 5,047
|
well, perhaps in my case since I NEED this Ferrari as a daily driver while the other gets minor stuff done. The T had another window issue which turned into a gawd awful project.....don't get me started on that. Can't swear to the exact sequence of events but here is what I did and the end of the door lock is in the now open position. 1. Put batter in off position. 2. Unplugged the CONNECTION to the ECU as the actual ECU connection was just too much trouble to undo [was afraid I would break the slidding mechanism..ya' think Ferrari would stick to one means of mechanics on a simple plug, but NO, they have a slide sideways on that particular item] You'll know that plug as it is a two prong item next to the OBDC I [?] plug, which is a three-prong...see pic. 3. Turned on the Battery..ya' no one said I was bright, that that's what I did. 4. Put my pliers, ya hammer approach , to the lever in the red circle and pressed it into the down position, and it [u] released the lock] to the unlock position. the lever I speak is same one, that connects to the outside key lock. That outside linkage was the easiest to get the pliers on.PS: I noticed that door lock has three positions physically, open, partially lock/1/2 way, and All the way in lock mode. I needed to go the distance and put the mechanism into the Full lock mode. Guide to the Galaxy: Don't Panic Rik -- LAH ! Current: 1990 Mondial T Cabriolet : Red/Tan 1995 456 GT 2+2 : Roso Metalizzato [Fer 311/C] & Tan Last edited by Granucci; 10-14-2010 at 11:58 AM. |
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| | #3 |
| Owner Elite Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: far and away
Ferrari Life Posts: 5,047
|
I have been asked how to get the door panel off the 456 GT 2+2. I currently have the pics taken on the items elsewhere, but via Ricambi's site drawings 116-118 you can see all you need, BUT there are 'mistakes'. This will be the Driver's side as the Passenger's side is a bit easier in that there is only one window switch. I will number the below in order of taking them out. You'll need a 7mm 'bending' rachet to get one of the Nuts out easier, but any wrench will do. A phillips head, and a [don'k know the size] hex MM key for one bolt. other than that, it's the sequence that is the key. 2 nuts 1 hex-bold PITA to do, a ratcheting hex item would be wonderful. 5 Phillip-headed screws. of which one is a PAIN. Guide to the Galaxy: Don't Panic Rik -- LAH ! Current: 1990 Mondial T Cabriolet : Red/Tan 1995 456 GT 2+2 : Roso Metalizzato [Fer 311/C] & Tan |
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| | #4 |
| Owner Elite Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: far and away
Ferrari Life Posts: 5,047
| Here are the steps, as I see them, are numbered in This color ane the Items are in RED. PIC stolen from Ricambi ![]() Tools: Hex-wrench: Size = can't remember, so bring them all. You'll use the small side and it is very tight in there. Crescent etc. wrench, but a ratcheting one of MM size is better. Had a small, positioned stubby set from Harbor Freight for about $10 a set. Phillips head screw driver, with ratchet is best. Shorter is better, like 3”. The door lock area is VERY tight. I used a $1 magnetic bowl from Harbor Freight for collecting bits and tools. Steps: 1. Remove from under the arm rest, the single screw, with its washer. This allows the AP [noted here] padded arm rest to be removed. Once the AP is removed, there is an OBDC and connected Door Lock plug seen inside the hollow: disconnect the Door lock connection. It is a two prong, while the OBDC socket is a 3-prong, so no fears there. 2. Remove the #2-4 Phillip-head screws at the bottom-most of the door panel. These are in the rug area on the panel, just below where the Leather part of the panel ends. Get on your back, look up, can't miss them, as only three are there in that rug area. 3. #5 [this was missing from picture, so I put in one of my own.] THIS one is a PITA to get back in, but getting out wasn’t too bad…just use a small/3” screwdriver. This will release the door release and door lock mechanism from the arm rest. Without this removed the arm rest cannot be removed as the lock and handle cables get in the way: HINT: Put tape or paint on the marking to return them to the original position. Mine had tape with the number of turns, but next time I am going to paint and mark them to better resolve as tape comes off. Without these in their original position, the locking mechanism may not work correctly and you’ll need to adjust on your own = PITA again. 4. #6-7 these two nuts with #8 are the three items that actually hold the arm rest to the door. Must be removed with 6/7 first: Crescent. 5. #8 PITA hex and very tight. Good luck, have patience, and it is about 1” in length so it takes a bit of time. Fingers didn’t work so well even when half way out. L. 6. Once 6-8 are done, the entire arm rest can be held in your lap while you sit on the door sill. Here is the deal. There is a lock and window ECU on the back side of the door panel. Remove the screw that has no slide hole as it is much easier to remove the entire ECU than unplug the connections: Let the ECU ‘dangle’ about. See pic at bottom of approximate design. 7. #9, no pic, just talk. The window buttons, #10-11 are easiest to remove by pushing them from behind where they connect and THEN removing their connections: REMEMBER to keep the Driver’s side button in the correct position when reversing the process, AND that the button’s picture is on the bottom. Just a reminder…..not that I did that ![]() 8. The door panel is able to be removed, IIRC, and all you need to do is lift the bottom of the panel away from door, and then bring panel down, towards ground. The TABS area, three noted in the pic, are what hold the upper panel to the door. The BLACK leather area on the very top, remains. No need to remove. Reverse the order when back to normal. Guide to the Galaxy: Don't Panic Rik -- LAH ! Current: 1990 Mondial T Cabriolet : Red/Tan 1995 456 GT 2+2 : Roso Metalizzato [Fer 311/C] & Tan |
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| | #5 |
| Owner Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Cyprus
Ferrari Life Posts: 35
Name: Ed
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Does the central locking cycle if you use the key in the door? If it does try removing the interior release handle and adjust it to make sure the microswitch is properely closed
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| | #6 | |
| Owner Elite Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: far and away
Ferrari Life Posts: 5,047
| Quote:
I"ll try that next time around. Thanks Guide to the Galaxy: Don't Panic Rik -- LAH ! Current: 1990 Mondial T Cabriolet : Red/Tan 1995 456 GT 2+2 : Roso Metalizzato [Fer 311/C] & Tan | |
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